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10
Tips for the DIY Arcade Builder: Vol. 3
By Nick Vazzana
(AKA M3talhead)
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- If your table saw is
resisting a cut, stop and see whats wrong. A
misaligned rip fence or improperly seated throat plate can often cause
a board to get stuck in mid-cut, forcing the piece you're working on to
buck or kickback. Stop and evaluate the situation before going any
further. (For best results when cutting MDF, use a carbide tipped
combination blade while feeding the material at a uniform speed through
the saw.)
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- Fold
sandpaper the proper way. Make a single cut 1/2 way up the sheet and
fold it so 2 abrasive sides don't touch. It'll extend the life of
the paper and when one portion is used up, just tuck it out of
the way and expose a new section.
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- If
you're out of Loc-Tite and need to firm up a machine screw, brush
the threads with nail polish or an oil-based paint. For stripped holes
in wood or MDF, pack the space with glue-covered toothpicks and
re-drill. No toothpicks? Try placing a small amount of steel wool in the hole and
re-thread the screw.
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- Manage to get a little glue on your hands after applying spray
adhesive to a surface? Dust your hands in flour if it's still tacky and have fun
peeling off a "second skin".
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- Use a bent straw to blow out the material from deep holes drilled in wood or MDF.
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- Keep hard copies of
software,
ROMS, manuals/documentation, and spare parts in a cardboard or plastic
organizer at the bottom of your cab. Having all the arcade-related
stuff in one place eliminates spending
2 hours in search of that bag of extra micro switches or an important
Happs
receipt.
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- While
waiting for coats of paint/primer to dry on your cab, store the
container upside so the "skin" form on bottom of the can.
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- Need a bunch of LEDs for a project
but don't want to empty your wallet? Keep your eye open for the
post-holiday sales. The newer Christmas lights use LEDs instead of
bulbs and can be purchased for as little as $5 for a string of 75. In
case you slept through math class, that breaks down to about 7cents /LED.
How's that for a deal?
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- Course-thread drywall screws are the best
solution when it comes to fastening MDF panels, but if it becomes
necessary to use nails, get spiral or ring shank nails for that extra
holding power.
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- To avoid chipout or breakage
around the exit of a hole drilled in MDF, back the piece you're working
on with some scrap material and use a high-speed drill (3000 Rpms) to
make a clean pass.
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Above all, take your time. MAME will be here waiting for you when
you finish, so give it a warm welcome by installing it in a cabinet
you'd be proud to call a piece of furniture, not a P.O.S.
Credits:
Michael Vazzana
B.Y.O.A.C.
Woodzone.com
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